After a two-hour disembarkation process through passport control (gigantic mob, no lines, zero crowd control or assistance, and
extremely thorough and intimidating guards), we finally stepped onto Russian soil in St. Petersburg. Weather reports predicted it might be a little rainy and in the 40's, but WHOA! It was snowing hard with driving winds and freezing cold temperatures.
We pushed off in our less than adequate clothing and started our adventure after a bit of a bumpy start. While the masses waited for a tiny shuttle, Ning found us a couple of taxis, who dropped us off at St. Isaac's Cathedral...not exactly where we thought we were going, but all the sights seemed close enough (or so we thought). The wet snowflakes drove into our faces, freezing tiny fingers, running mascara and truly shocking us with its ferocity as we walked down Nevsky Prospekt until we finally made it to the imposing and vividly
turquoise Winter Palace, which sits in Palace Square -- big enough for 50 battalions to march in formation. We were the only people on the entire square (which is saying something!), besides one random hot dog vendor, and you better believe we bought the kids a Russian hot dog to help get them to our next destination!
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| Russian hot dogs? Sure, we'll take it!!!!! |
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| We hid on this corner while we gained the strength to run across the square |
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| The Alexander Column |
We continued on towards the river. Then, like a beacon of light, we saw a doorman wearing a Russian fur hat, and I asked if there was a restaurant in the hotel he represented
so we could get out of the cold and dry off. We zipped up a warm elevator to the 9th floor, overlooking St. Petersburg's rooftops for an elegant, upscale Russian lunch of caviar, beef stroganoff and Venison Pelmeni. Other than Charlie getting locked in the bathroom (we
thought he seemed gone for a long time....), it was absolute perfection. They handed us buttery hotel madeleines as we walked out the door, preparing ourselves for the whip of wind that greeted us.
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| Caviar |
We braved the snowstorm as we made our way to our
intended destination, the Church on Spilled Blood, which was absolutely worth the effort! It was splendid with its colorful onion domes and resplendent mosaic interior, depicting scenes from the Bible.
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| Church on Spilled Blood |
Outside of the church was a year-round, all-weather outdoor market selling matryoshka dolls, hand-painted chess pieces and fur hats. Vendors would quickly roll up their stand as they saw us approach. We bartered for a few fun souvenirs before jumping in a cab and paying way too much for home.
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| Lots of bartering.... |
We had ballet tickets to see Swan Lake in the Hermitage Theater that night, but sadly, we just couldn't rally. Early dinner, early bedtimes.
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| John and Bitsy walking to our table in the dining room |
Russia Day Two
Svetlana, our fabulous Russian tour guide, picked us up and took us around St. Petersburg with our driver, Alexander. From the warmth of our car, we learned about the Admiralty building, St. Isaac's Cathedral (again! ha), Peter the Great statue, a Russian submarine and the first ice breaker, before piling out at the Hermitage Museum and Winter Palace. When the Czar's of Russia were building this palace and collecting its art, they hoped to surpass Versailles and the Louvre. It was magnificent with its gilded gold interiors, ornate columned staterooms, gigantic green malachite vases, paintings by every master through the ages and ancient Egyptian artifacts.
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| Going in..... |
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| She fit right in! |
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| Reenacting the painting behind us! |
We walked from the Hermitage to the Belmont Grand Hotel Europe for Russian tea. We were served caviar and warm blinis on three tiered trays with salmon finger sandwiches, tiny Russian meat pies, and of course, two pots of tea in gorgeous traditional china. There were four real bunny rabbits in an Easter-decorated pen besides our table, to the kids' absolute
delight!
We stopped by a souvenir shop on the way home to pick up a few more matryoshka dolls as gifts, then hopped in a cab after a very full day. That night, the adults had "Negroni-fest," and caught part of a pretty hilarious and entertaining live show where Ning and I danced on stage when the audience was invited. We had a friendly debate about whether the performances were lip-synched or real. Rob and I finished the night with a competitive round of air hockey.
The next morning, we let the masses push and shove their way off the ship while we had a leisurely breakfast. We reflected on our
incredible trip so far, and laughed at several hilarious moments....like John hanging out with a group of co-eds in the ship's hot tub (little tiny ladies man) and Bitsy's funny run-in with a Russian trucker (our cruise served as a ferry) who exclaimed, "Danc-ee, danc-ee," as she spun to the music piped over the ship's audio system.
Coming out of passport control, we found ourselves in an industrial and out-of-the-way part of Helsinki. As we fumbled to figure out Finnish Ubers for our large group, a deluxe taxi van pulled up out of nowhere and asked if we needed a ride. We could hear angels singing! First, we dropped off my dad and Ning at their Finnish sauna spa where they would spend the next day until they pushed off for Tallinn, while we went on to the airport for our departure to ICELAND!!!!!!
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| Bitsy napped on the go this entire vacation! Bless her little heart!!! |
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